CULTURAL VIGNETTE : A tale on the Traditional Costume of the Isneg Tribe of Apayao Province in the Philippines

"Most people think

Time is like a river

that flows swift

and sure in

one direction.

They are wrong.

Sit down and

I will tell you

a tale

like none that

you have ever

heard."

~Yuri Lowenthal

Long ago, in the northernly end of the Cordillera central mountains, lies a province named Apayao.

Here, a mighty river, savagely rough and deep, courses through steep mountain gorges down to the valleys and plains, straight to the Philippine Sea. This river, so blue in the mid-morning sun, is the life force for a tribe in Apayao called ISNEG.

The Isnegs lived isolated in these expansive mountains with stunning scenery, adorned with small hills and steep cliffs along both sides of the river. A labyrinth of valleys and foothills, embraced by tropical forests and Savanna grass, led them to their paradise. To reach this haven, they navigated for hours on personalized bamboo rafts or small boats, then traversed long trails to their homes.

The people cherished their land, coexisting with nature spirits known as "anito," who either aided or wrought mischief upon them. Deep within the dark forest, they sought the rare herb "tagarut," an amulet protecting them from ailments caused by malevolent "anitos." Entrusted as stewards of the forests, mountains, rivers, and all living things, they guarded their home with unwavering dedication. In times long past, they took heads to defend their territory.

The landscapes of their rivers and mountains became woven into the fabric of their lives, fostering an innate sense of beauty that they meticulously embroidered into their traditional costumes and ornaments.

Blue, drawn from the river's reflection of the skyworld where their great "anitos" resided or the distant mountains' receding blueness, adorned their garments. Red, derived from the fierce glare of the sun, symbolized energy and the power to conquer their enemies.

They embroidered the river's ripples as it flowed to the sea and the peaks of mountains rippling down to hills and valleys. In these garments, they encapsulated the beauty of nature, creating a lasting connection to their cherished land. These visual narratives depicted their belief that, after their earthly existence, their spirits would ascend a ladder to the spirit world, a realm beyond mortal reach.

Their traditional costumes, a testament to the majesty of creation, crowned them as the royalty of their territory, unconquered by the Spaniards for an extended period.

Such was the life of the Isneg tribe, as adorned in their embellished costumes, narrating their story. They were the river people, akin to their great river – "gentle, quiet, and peaceful."

As many lived along the river, few became it.

The Isnegs, from then to now, in their costumes, perpetuate their rituals. Forever dancing with swift feet, soaring like swallows or the mighty bird "Turayan," they live happily ever after.

And so ends a segment of an unending story.

The  Isnegs, from then and now, in their costumes will continue doing their rituals. They will forever be dancing with their swift feet and flying like swallows or the mighty bird "Turayan", living happily ever after.

And that ends the segment of an unending story.

♥

Acknowledgements:

☼Owners of photos #s 2,3, and 11 which were downloaded from the internet.

☼Graal Cawed, owner of Topskill shop in Porta Vaga, Baguio City

 who supplied some of the Isneg costumes in the photos. 

☼Descriptive quotes from the book:  Form and Splendor by Roberto Maramba.

☼ Information about the Religious Beliefs of the Isnegs by Arlene Sapanza

☼ Lin-awa Center for Culture and Arts  who sponsored the Seminar workshop on Strengthening Indigenous Knowledge Transmission

☼The IGOROT GLOBAL ORGANIZATION IIC9 for the planned production and publishing of a booklet on CULTURAL VIGNETTES during the Cultural Day but did not push through.

☼The boy with a flute who is a student of the School of Living Tradition in La Trinidad, Benguet Province. 

Photos and vignette by ~Lepan♥

Note:

The story above was adapted from the presentation I made on the TRADITIONAL COSTUMES AND DANCES OF THE ISNEGS OF APAYAO to inculcate cultural awareness and sensitivity. This was sponsored by the Lin-awa Center for Culture and Arts. The invitation was through Ms. Lucy Ruiz, the Executive Director.

This was a series of seminar-workshops attended by school teachers. There were, however a few children from the Schools of Living Traditions. Hence I came up with a storytelling style of introduction which explains the symbols in the costumes. This makes them distinct with other tribes.

The plan to compile the CORDILLERA CULTURAL VIGNETTES with the title as suggested by Mrs. Ursula Bangaan Daoey was conceptualized for the Cultural Day of the 9^th Igorot International Consultation (IIC9) in Asin, Tuba, Benguet. The production may still push through once the writings are completed.

Below are photos of events where the Apayao costume was highlighted:

◙9th Igorot International Consultation (IIC9),

Baguio Country Club, Baguio City  April 2012

◙ Strengthening Indigenous Knowledge Transmission,

A Seminar-Workshop on Traditional Bamboo Instruments and

Cultural Awareness & Sensitivity Sponsoby Lin-awa Center for Culture and Arts May 20

◙Opening of ALAMAT, a show on myths, at VOCAS

(La Azotea bldg, 108 Session Road, Baguio City) May 2011

◙A Tribute to the Cordilleran Heroes Celebration by the

Cordillera Global Network (CGN) June 2010

◙Learning the Apayao dance mentored by Bart Alatan of Vancouver, Canada

Guisad Barangay Hall, Guisad, Baguio City

"The river has no shape, but it takes on the boundaries which it carves out for itself, so is the mind boundless, until it creates a prison for its own thoughts."

~ Samurai Warrior Wisdom